I know 4.5inches will work really good for a 120mm. don't remember the size for the 120, i use the rotozip's circle cutter for that now. a mandrel and saw blade can be had for as little as 20 bones, then you can buy different size saws to fit the different fans, i use a 3in (76mm) for an 80mm fan, works perfectly for the best flow and mounting ease. dremels are great for very small details, hence their size, but for a large opening or window type of cut, i'd definitely go with a larger tool of some sort.įor holes, a holesaw works pretty good, gets a little hairy when the saw busts through the other side, just gotta be careful. you mentioned dremel as being the best, dremels tend to chip aluminum big time, even on the highest speed setting, and the bits wear out so fast, you spend 2x the amount on bits than it would cost to take it to a machine shop. the folks at use these tools to refine their cuts to exacting standards where the laser cutter cannot be used. On the contrary, both are quite effective and are used by many of the top modding sites out there, pcmods uses a combination of a laser cutting table and a spiral saw of some sort to make their case sidepanels. do this and you'll definitely have better results in all your modding ventures. as with any tool, to get an exact cut, you'll need to clamp the workpiece down so you can use both hands on the tool and not have to hold the piece. the rotozip has speeds from 10k to 30k rpm, and the vice attachment works well. if you are looking for a lower cost spiral saw, dremel put out a spiral saw just recently and i've used it, not as many attachments for it just yet as the rotozip, but it works much like the zip, just slower and a little less controllable since the speed is lower. dremels suck, take a long time, and the tools cost more than they're worth if you ask me. using the attachments makes it more refined. once you get used to the feel of the tool, you'll be cutting perfect every time. it's a touch that you just can't get the first time around with it. the regular model with just a spiral saw bit is kinda tricky to use, but you should practice before you use the thing on a final project. i also built my bong with it, cutting all the necessary holes in the 5gallon igloo to put the pipe in and tubing cuts, etc. i've done all my case mods to my system and they look professionally done. I’m bad about keeping logs of what settings work with what.I have the rotozip revolution model, comes with the right angle cutter and stuff, as well as the circle cutter tool, and it doesn't get any better than this thing. You’ll need to test the depth of cut on some scraps to see how those speeds cut though. For the most part those speeds should be alright. Stay in the 15 to 20mm/s range for 1/8th inch end mills in wood. Actually unless you are cutting fiberglass or carbon fiber, those are the only end mills you’d ever need to use. For now, stick with 1 or 2 flute upcut end mills. Everybody’s build is slightly different which will effect how they cut. That’s hard to do because the speeds and feeds are dependent on the machine. Material cut, Bit – (Brand), Bit Size, Bit Type (maybe dimensions), # of flutes, router (brand/model), router speed,travel speed, depth of cut, z-speed, and any other pertinent parameters. Something with the basics, to give the beginners a good starting point. Even if it was only for the bits you sell. It would be nice if there was a page or table or something that shows only successes. I bought some various bits off of Amazon, and a router speed controller from the local Harbor Freight and I have initial success!! Better bits, faster travel speed, and slower RPMs. Constructed from high-speed steel with a shank of 1/8 in, cuts all types of wood, wood composites, fiberglass, solid surface materials, vinyl and aluminum.
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